1. The History of Sushi No. 1
Sushi from Ancient Times(710 - 794) to the Edo Period(1603 - 1868)
Then, let's delve into the history of sushi in this first chapter. Admittedly, it's a bit formal, and if you're not a fan of historical details, you might be tempted to skip it. However, I encourage you to stick with me—I'll keep it concise and informative. Surprisingly, even many Japanese are unaware of these facts. Ready to take your first step towards becoming a sushi connoisseur?
Sushi has evolved over time. Today, when most people think of “Sushi”, they imagine a specific form.
This form is Nigiri-zushi. Whether in Japan or abroad, the word “Sushi” typically brings Nigiri-zushi to mind( If you see the word “zushi“ in your sushi dining travels, there is no difference in meaning). This is both a source of joy and a bit of sadness for me. The joy comes from its widespread recognition, but the sadness stems from the fact that sushi has so many other variations. Understanding these variations is crucial to appreciate Edomae-zushi, the pinnacle of Nigiri-zushi. Edomae-zushi represents the culmination of sushi's evolution. Distinguishing between Nigiri-zushi and Edomae-zushi is a significant leap in your journey to becoming a Sushi connoisseur. This distinction is vital because most people, including many Japanese, often mix them up.
The current definition of Edomae-zushi is “a bite-sized sushi dish made with cooked fish and vinegar-seasoned rice”. Notice the emphasis on “cooked fish”. This is critical because there's a common misconception that Edomae-zushi involves raw fish. This misunderstanding is prevalent even in Japanese media and among food enthusiasts. However, “Sushi with just raw fish and vinegared rice” is not true Edomae-zushi but rather “sashimi onigiri”, that is a rice ball with raw fish (more on this later). The fish ingredients of Edomae-zushi have to be cooked in principle.
Now that you're aware of sushi's variations and understand that Edomae-zushi is one such variation, combining cooked fish with vinegar-seasoned rice, let's proceed to the history of Sushi. We'll explore these variations in detail in Chapter 2. If it sounds complex, don't worry—it will become clearer as we go. For now, in Chapter 1, let's focus on how sushi has transformed over time.
The Origins of Sushi in Japan
Do you know when sushi first appeared in Japan(Japanese history)? This question often stumps even the most avid sushi enthusiasts in Japan. The answer dates back to the Nara Period (710-794 AD). During this time, the Imperial Court in Nara received tributes of ancient sushi including abalone, mussels, and tai (sea bream) from regions like Omi (now Shiga Prefecture) and Wakasa (now southern Fukui Prefecture). The sushi then was Nare-zushi, originating from Southeast Asia, spanning from northern Thailand to Yunnan Province in China. This marks the origin of sushi, with its ancestor being lactic acid-fermented fish and rice - the precursor to Edomae-zushi.
“Engishiki”, an ancient law book compiled in 927 AD, further documents sushi as a tribute. The seafood varieties used then included ayu( sweetfish), crucian carp, salmon, and mussels, among others. This rich history dates sushi back over 1,200 to 1,300 years. Interestingly, even modern sushi restaurants nod to this past, often referring to their cooking area as the Tsukeba, pickle place. The term Tsukeba likely took root during the Edo era (1603-1867). During this era, marinating fish and shellfish in salt, vinegar, and soy sauce became a prevalent method.
In Nara Prefecture, “Tsurube Sushi Yasuke”, the oldest existing sushi restaurant in Japan, retains the legacy of ayu-zushi from the Heian period (794-1192). Founded between 1185 and 1189, it's over 800 years old. Today, instead of using lactic fermented ayu fish, they use salt-marinated ayu fish with vinegared rice, the shape of the dish is said to have retained its original form. “Tsurube Sushi Yasuke” is unknown even among Japanese, so I introduce you several pics!
Sushi in Edo Era and the Birth of Nigiri-zushi
Sushi evolved significantly during the Genroku period (1688-1704) of the Edo era (1603-1868). The introduction of rice vinegar (acetic acid fermented sake) marked a shift from lactic acid fermentation, offering a less intense sourness and faster preparation, appealing to the general public. This led to the creation of Haya-zushi (non-lactic acid fermented sushi). In the Kansai region, Kansai-zushi emerged, introducing varieties like Saba-zushi and Hako-zushi, which remain popular today, especially among tourists in Osaka and Kyoto. This period also saw sushi becoming a celebratory dish across Japan.
The term Edomae-zushi, now synonymous with sushi, originated during the Bunka-Bunsei period (1804-1830) of the Edo era. Two sushi chefs, Hanaya Yohei of Yohei Zushi (1824) and Sakaiya Matsugoro of Matsuga Sushi (1830), are credited with its creation. Yohei Zushi became so popular that it even inspired a poem about the long waits, while Matsuga-zushi was known as the most extravagant sushi in Edo. Their popularity led to fines under the Tenpo Reforms for extravagance.
Above, I've shared quite a bit about the birth of Edomae-zushi. Stay tuned for my next article for a deeper dive into this fascinating subject!
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The TOC of “Spirits of Sushi“
Introduction: Unveiling Sushi Secrets
The History of Sushi
Exploring Sushi Varieties: Edomae-zushi (Nigiri-zushi), Kansai-zushi, and More
Essential Sushi Vocabulary: Key Terms for Navigating a Sushi Restaurant
The Heart of Sushi: A Guide to “Shari”, Sushi Rice
A Deep Dive into Sushi Fish and Accompaniments
The Art of the Sushi Master: Traditional Japanese Knives
Japan's Exquisite Fish Culture: From Tsukiji to Toyosu Market and Various Regions
Must-Visit Sushi Restaurants: From Tokyo to Sapporo, Fukuoka, and Other Regions
Regional Sushi Styles: Exploring Japan's Diverse Sushi Culture
Sushi and Sake Pairings: A Culinary Adventure
Sushi Etiquette and Table Manner: Dining like a Sophisticated Local
Shopping in Japan: Essentials for Crafting Delicious Sushi at Home
Sushi in Pop Culture: Manga and Movies
Sushi: A Lens on Health and Sustainability
Wrapping Up: The Future of Sushi