In my previous article, I delved into the origins of Edomae-zushi, which emerged between 1804 and 1831. Now, let's explore how Edomae-zushi evolved since its inception in the Edo period.
What Led to the Swift Rise in Popularity of Edomae-zushi?
Edomae-zushi quickly gained popularity upon its introduction. Several factors contributed to this, but perhaps the most significant was its innovative nature. Of course, a practical appeal of Edomae-zushi is that it's “quick to serve and tasty”. However, it's also important to acknowledge the pivotal role of red vinegar, an ingredient previously unavailable, in its invention.
The residents of Edo, known as “Edokko”, had a penchant for novelty, especially in their cuisine and traditional arts. They valued seasonal eating so highly that there was even a saying, “Pawn your wife if necessary to taste the first bonito of the season” (the bonito season begins around April). This proverb would be too horrible for a modern person to utter. The trend-setting Edokko eagerly embraced red vinegar, which remains a staple in modern Tokyo's cuisine. Red vinegar, as it's known, is made from matured and fermented sake lees, offering a robust flavor and umami that complements cooked fish, sushi ingredients, superbly. This wasn't just a fleeting trend; it has been cherished since the Edo period.
Mizkan, the company that pioneered red vinegar, still thrives today as a global entity. Their red vinegar, known as Mitsuban Yamabuki, is named after its brilliant golden-yellow hue, reminiscent of the yamabuki flower, and remains a testament to this enduring legacy when mixed with sushi rice. The preparation methods of Edomae-zushi developed in the Edo period will be discussed in more detail in Chapter 3. I hope you look forward to it!
Sushi in Meiji Era and Now
During Meiji (1868 - 1912) and Taisho (1912 - 1926) Eras, following the Edo period, Edomae-zushi continued to spread and evolve. A significant advancement in the Meiji Era was the onset of ice production. This innovation, with the use of ice-coolers, made fresh fish more accessible, transforming sushi restaurants. These establishments were categorized into three types: high-class, sit-down sushi restaurants, uchi-mise (focused on delivery with a business model centered around a tatami room for dine-in customers), and yatai-mise (where customers initially stood to eat before chairs were introduced, leading to the current business model). Many sushi chefs began their careers with yatai-mise, using the profits to establish their own restaurants.
In kansai regions like Osaka and Kyoto, Edomae-zushi was not as well-known or popular. Instead, Osaka developed its unique style of boxed sushi which is called Hako-zushi. By the Meiji period, these sushi boxes, measuring 2"6" (8.5 cm) square and known as '2"6 kaiseki ryori' (a type of kaiseki cuisine, traditional form of fine Japanese cuisine), became an art form with beautifully arranged ingredients. Thus, Edomae-zushi remained largely a local cuisine of Tokyo.
It's fascinating to trace how Edomae-zushi eventually became widespread across Japan. A pivotal moment was the Great Kanto Earthquake occurred in 1923. In the aftermath, many sushi chefs, having lost their homes, dispersed throughout the country. This led to the opening of Edomae-zushi restaurants nationwide. Ironically, without this earthquake, innovations like conveyor-belt sushi and caterpillar rolls might never have emerged.
The modern incarnation of Edomae-zushi was shaped post-World War II, 1945. The “Emergency Order on Food and Beverage Business” forced most restaurants, including sushi establishments, to shut down. However, through persistent negotiations between volunteer sushi chefs and the Japanese Metropolitan Police Department, and with input from General Douglas MacArthur's GHQ, sushi restaurants were granted permission to operate. The chefs argued that they were part of the processing industry rather than the restaurant business. In a surprising turn of events, they were allowed to operate under the condition that they use only one cup of rice brought by the customer to prepare 10 pieces of sushi. This led to the standardization of the size of nigiri-zushi, which became known as “kan”, or one piece of sushi—a fact not widely known among many Japanese.
Since then, Edomae-zushi's popularity has only grown. It gained traction in homes via conveyor-belt sushi (first introduced in Osaka in 1958) and home-delivery sushi. Meanwhile, the more upscale, non-conveyor belt sushi restaurants have become a sought-after dining experience.
In the next article, I will discuss "Types of sushi in Japan". Please look forward to it!
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The TOC of “Spirits of Sushi“
Introduction: Unveiling Sushi Secrets
The History of Sushi
Exploring Sushi Varieties: Edomae-zushi (Nigiri-zushi), Kansai-zushi, and More
Essential Sushi Vocabulary: Key Terms for Navigating a Sushi Restaurant
The Heart of Sushi: A Guide to “Shari”, Sushi Rice
A Deep Dive into Sushi Fish and Accompaniments
The Art of the Sushi Master: Traditional Japanese Knives
Japan's Exquisite Fish Culture: From Tsukiji to Toyosu Market and Various Regions
Must-Visit Sushi Restaurants: From Tokyo to Sapporo, Fukuoka, and Other Regions
Regional Sushi Styles: Exploring Japan's Diverse Sushi Culture
Sushi and Sake Pairings: A Culinary Adventure
Sushi Etiquette and Table Manner: Dining like a Sophisticated Local
Shopping in Japan: Essentials for Crafting Delicious Sushi at Home
Sushi in Pop Culture: Manga and Movies
Sushi: A Lens on Health and Sustainability
Wrapping Up: The Future of Sushi