In Chapter 4, I will guide you through the essential technical terms to know when visiting a sushi restaurant. Sushi dining can be an emotionally enriching experience that doesn't require overthinking. Indeed, the best way to enjoy sushi is often to simply savor it without much contemplation. However, being familiar with the terminology undeniably deepens your immersion into the world of sushi.
It not only helps you relax and enjoy your meal without stress but also facilitates communication with the sushi chef. As I've found in other countries, knowledge of local culinary terms can pleasantly surprise restaurant staff. “How do you know all this?” they often ask. Their delight usually leads them to share more knowledge, making the dining experience even more rewarding. I firmly believe that one cannot fully appreciate the allure of a cuisine by merely visiting various eateries in a “stamp-rally” fashion.
In this chapter, we will explore the technical terms related to sushi and also highlight some terms that should not be used, which are often overlooked by even many Japanese people.
Given the potential for confusion with the many Japanese expressions used, the particularly important or especially useful terms are highlighted in bold. If you find the abundance of Japanese terminology overwhelming, I recommend focusing on these bolded terms.
Technical Terms to Remember at Sushi Restaurants
Many of the technical terms in sushi restaurants originated as insider jargon, specific to the chefs and staff. As such, it is generally considered impolite for customers to use them. However, there's a slight complication. Some of these terms have become so widely accepted that their usage is no longer problematic. The following are the “acceptable insider terms” in the contemporary sushi dining context.
Kan: Unit of Sushi, 1 piece of Nigiri
Omakase: Full course selected by the sushi chef
Okimari: A fixed set of nigiri-zushi for one (usually without sake snacks)
Hito-tori: The practice of ordering all available varieties of nigiri-zushi on that particular day
Okonomi: A la carte order
Shari: Sushi rice
Gari: Pickled ginger
Tsukeba: The area behind the counter where the sushi chef prepares sushi
Shigoto: Methods of preparing sushi
Hikari-mono: Blue fish with shiny skin (such as kohada, horse mackerel, mackerel, sayori)
Toro: Fatty part of tuna
Odori: Raw tiger prawns
Geso: Squid legs
Nikiri-shoyu: Sauce made by boiling sake or mirin, skimming off the alcohol, and mixing it with soy sauce
Nitsume: A rich, thickened sauce created by reducing the liquid from simmered conger eel or clams.
Gunkan-maki: Sushi with vinegared rice and seaweed, often used for ingredients that don't easily cling to rice
Tekkamaki: A roll made with red tuna meat
Kappamaki: A roll made with cucumber
Let's highlight two particularly important terms to remember: “Shari” and “Shigoto”. Understanding and appreciating these terms can greatly enrich your interaction with a sushi chef. Complimenting a chef on the deliciousness of the “Shari” (sushi rice) or the excellence of their “Shigoto” (preparation techniques) will surely bring them joy. These elements are fundamental to the overall flavor of sushi. Familiarity with these Japanese terms can endear you to sushi chefs, who might comment, “This person truly appreciates sushi.”
“Shigoto” is discussed in detail in Chapter 2, while “Shari” will be covered in the upcoming Chapter 4. Rest assured, I will provide an in-depth explanation of these critical aspects, so you'll be well-prepared to fully enjoy the sushi experience.
Technical Terms That Should Not Be Used
Next, I would like to highlight some sushi-related jargon that should not be used. Drawing from my personal experiences of dining on sushi and interacting with sushi chefs, I have compiled a list of terms that are considered acceptable and those that are not in contemporary sushi etiquette. While these terms may be unfamiliar to non-Japanese individuals, I believe it's important to introduce them as part of educating about sushi culture.
Terms to Avoid in Sushi Restaurants:
Agari: Refers to tea
Oaiso: Means check or bill
Murasaki: Slang for soy sauce
Namida: A term for wasabi
Aniki, big brother: Refers to an old type of sushi
Particularly Important to Avoid:
Taisho: A term often used to address the head chef of Japanese cuisine(except Sushi)
While even some Japanese people occasionally use these terms, they are generally regarded as tactless. Essentially, these words are insider jargon that hasn't become mainstream, so using them might give the impression of trying to be a know-it-all.
The term “agari”, used for tea served at sushi restaurants, has its origins in the “Karyu-kai” world of the Edo period (1603-1868). In this context, the word “tea” was avoided as it was associated with geiko (geisha) who had no patrons and spent time “grinding tea”. The tea prepared by geiko (geisha) was served to customers, with “de-bana” referring to the initial serving and “agari-bana” to the final one. The auspicious term “agari-bana” eventually shortened to “agari” and was adopted by sushi restaurants, which thrived alongside the Karyu-kai world. However, it's incorrect to refer to all teas as '“agari”, as it specifically means the last tea served. Additionally, it's considered inappropriate for customers to use this term, as it was traditionally a term of good fortune used by the restaurant.
Regarding “oaiso”, it's a phrase often misused by even Japanese customers (especially older men.). Traditionally, it's a humble expression from the restaurant owner, meaning “I apologize if I come across as unfriendly”, because Japan has a culture of modesty. Thus, when a customer uses this phrase, it implies “no courtesy” on the part of the restaurant. A more appropriate way for customers to request the bill is to say “Gochiso sama deshita (Thank you for the meal).” or “Could I have the bill, please?”
Terms like “Namida” (tears) for wasabi and “Aniki” (big brother) for an old sushi ingredients may sound humorous and endearing, but they are not considered sophisticated to use. It's best to know them merely as part of sushi culture knowledge.
Finally, the term “Taisho” is an address that should be particularly avoided. “Taisho” is the term used in Kansai region, whereas in Tokyo's Edomae-zushi cuisine, the proper way to address the chef is “oyakata”. Unfortunately, many people on Japanese web media and social networks mistakenly use “Taisho”, unaware of its origins. It's important to remember that “oyakata” is the correct term.
Since my twenties, I've made it a point to address the chef as “oyakata” at Edomae-zushi restaurants. This is because many veteran sushi chefs in Tokyo prefer not to be called “taisho”. While such preferences have diminished over time, '“oyakata” remains the respectful choice.
Some might consider this insistence on terminology as pedantic, but it comes from a place of respect for traditional food culture. In recent times, there has been a trend of “foodies” making superficial judgments about restaurants based on their “stamp rally” visits, but true appreciation of food culture involves understanding and respect.
In the next chapter, Chapter 4, we will focus on the most crucial element of sushi: the rice. Often perceived primarily as a fish dish, the quality of sushi is actually greatly influenced by the rice. Even with the finest fish, it's the rice that can make or break the flavor. The sushi chef's expertise in rice preparation is, therefore, of paramount importance.
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The TOC of “Spirits of Sushi“
Introduction: Unveiling Sushi Secrets
The History of Sushi
Exploring Sushi Varieties: Edomae-zushi (Nigiri-zushi), Kansai-zushi, and More
Essential Sushi Vocabulary: Key Terms for Navigating a Sushi Restaurant
The Heart of Sushi: A Guide to “Shari”, Sushi Rice
A Deep Dive into Sushi Fish and Accompaniments
The Art of the Sushi Master: Traditional Japanese Knives
Japan's Exquisite Fish Culture: From Tsukiji to Toyosu Market and Various Regions
Must-Visit Sushi Restaurants: From Tokyo to Sapporo, Fukuoka, and Other Regions
Regional Sushi Styles: Exploring Japan's Diverse Sushi Culture
Sushi and Sake Pairings: A Culinary Adventure
Sushi Etiquette and Table Manner: Dining like a Sophisticated Local
Shopping in Japan: Essentials for Crafting Delicious Sushi at Home
Sushi in Pop Culture: Manga and Movies
Sushi: A Lens on Health and Sustainability
Wrapping Up: The Future of Sushi