4. The Heart of Sushi: A Guide to “Shari”, Sushi Rice, and seasonings
#1 Importance of Rice Cooking Techniques and Rice
This chapter will guide you in understanding what constitutes "tasty shari, the essence of sushi rice. The most crucial element of sushi is not the fish, but rather the sushi rice. You might be thinking, "That can't be right! Surely it's the fish?" However, in reality, the quality of the shari can make or break a sushi dish. There are sushi restaurants that use top-quality fish but fail to deliver exceptional sushi due to subpar shari. Conversely, there are master chefs who, using less expensive fish, elevate their sushi to a dramatically delicious level through their expertise in rice preparation and nigiri techniques.
I have always maintained that "Shari is the lifeblood of sushi." When I inquire with sushi chefs about the importance of rice, many of them attribute 60-80% of a dish's success to the shari (and some even say 90% or 100%).
Sushi books written in English on sushi often overlook the significance and nuances of rice. Yet, this omission misses an essential aspect of sushi. I believe that any comprehensive discussion of sushi must accurately address the rice component. Therefore, in this article, I will delve into the details of sushi rice with great attention.
In advanced Edomae-zushi preparation, a sushi chef is required to possess not only the skill to assemble sushi but also the expertise in preparing sushi rice (shari-kiri). Below is a concise description of the qualities of "tasty shari”.
The rice grains are not broken.
The rice grain is taut.
The surface of each grain is smooth, not rough.
The rice has an ideal viscosity, allowing it to be easily separated.
The temperature of the rice is just right, not too cold.
The texture is neither too soft nor too hard.
Upon biting, the natural sweetness of the rice is discernible without sugar.
The seasoning is balanced, not overpowering, complementing the flavor of the fish well.
The art of making the perfect sushi rice involves a meticulous process, far beyond simply pressing a button on a rice cooker. Here are the key steps:
Select the right type of rice for your own shari.
Choose the appropriate vinegar.
Determine the correct proportions of vinegar, salt, and sugar, and mix them.
Soak the rice in water.
Cook the rice.
Pour the prepared vinegar mixture (from step 3) over the freshly cooked rice.
Shari-kiri the rice, gently mixing it with a rice paddle.
Cool the rice a little bit to the appropriate temperature.
Maintain the rice's flavor and texture until serving.
We will examine the various raw materials in detail later. For now, I'd like to focus on the processes of soaking (4) and cooking rice (5). These techniques are so sophisticated that they would likely astonish other East Asians, such as the Chinese, Taiwanese, and Koreans, not to mention many people overseas. Sushi chefs meticulously calculate the water temperature and soaking time for the rice.
Viscosity is the greatest enemy of sushi rice. Japanese Uruchi rice, non-glutinous rice, is typically highly viscous (japonica rice, commonly used in Japan, has an amylopectin content of 80 to 85%, contributing to its stickiness, compared to 70 to 75% in indica rice, common in India and Southeast Asia). The skill of the sushi chef lies in soaking and cooking the rice to reduce its stickiness while bringing out its inherent sweetness.
The most advanced theory suggests soaking the rice in cold water for an extended period and then cooking it rapidly at a high temperature. The water for rinsing and soaking is kept below 12°C, often in a refrigerator. High-heat-producing earthenware pots or hagama, traditional iron rice cooking vessel, are used for cooking. Takaaki Sugita of Sugita in Nihonbashi-Kakigaracho, a renowned restaurant in Japan, still personally oversees his rice cooking, a testament to its importance (his restaurant was rated No. 1 in all categories by the popular Japanese gourmet website “Tabelog”). Although sushi rice preparation is less complex than modern gastronomy's advanced cooking methods, it is similarly sophisticated. Additionally, adjustments must be made according to the season, including ambient temperature and water temperature, making it a truly Japanese cuisine that harmonizes with nature.
Please note that I have written an article specifically for Japanese households on “How to make delicious Edomae-zushi style rice”. This article is available on “note”, the platform similar to Substack in Japan. For those interested, I recommend using Google's automatic translation feature to access and understand the content.
This marks the end of the introductory article for Chapter 4. In the next article, we will delve into rice and vinegar, both of which play crucial roles in the preparation of shari.
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The TOC of “Spirits of Sushi“
Introduction: Unveiling Sushi Secrets
The History of Sushi
Exploring Sushi Varieties: Edomae-zushi (Nigiri-zushi), Kansai-zushi, and More
Essential Sushi Vocabulary: Key Terms for Navigating a Sushi Restaurant
The Heart of Sushi: A Guide to “Shari”, Sushi Rice
A Deep Dive into Sushi Fish and Accompaniments
The Art of the Sushi Master: Traditional Japanese Knives
Japan's Exquisite Fish Culture: From Tsukiji to Toyosu Market and Various Regions
Must-Visit Sushi Restaurants: From Tokyo to Sapporo, Fukuoka, and Other Regions
Regional Sushi Styles: Exploring Japan's Diverse Sushi Culture
Sushi and Sake Pairings: A Culinary Adventure
Sushi Etiquette and Table Manner: Dining like a Sophisticated Local
Shopping in Japan: Essentials for Crafting Delicious Sushi at Home
Sushi in Pop Culture: Manga and Movies
Sushi: A Lens on Health and Sustainability
Wrapping Up: The Future of Sushi