In this 13th installment of "Traditional Sushi Varieties," I would like to discuss Egg Omelet (Tamago), Nori (Seaweed), and Wasabi (Japanese horseradish), the "behind-the-scenes" ingredients of Edomae-zushi. While nori and wasabi may not be as prominent as other types of sushi, they are essential components without which a sushi restaurant cannot operate. These ingredients have been crucial since the Edo period. In this article, I would like to shed some light on them.
Egg Omelet (Tamago)
Nori (Seaweed)
Wasabi (Japanese horseradish)
Egg Omelet (Tamago)
Although not a seafood, tamago is an important type of sushi. Many people used to say, "You can tell how good a sushi restaurant is by tasting the tamago." Personally, I think this is an exaggeration, but I can understand why tamago was so significant. The tamago was originally meant to be eaten with rice, which is why the balance of the tamago and rice flavors was a measure of the sushi chef's skill and sense of taste. Eating the tamago by itself does not fully reveal the skill of the sushi chef. There are three main types of tamago at Edomae-zushi restaurants: thinly baked egg (Usuyaki Tamago), thickly baked egg (Dashimaki Tamago), and sponge cake egg (Castella Tamago). The characteristics of each are as follows:
Usuyaki Tamago
This is the most traditional type of tamago found at Edomae sushi restaurants. Some sushi chefs incorrectly refer to the "Castella Tamago" (described below) as "Usuyaki Tamago." Usuyaki Tamago is a thinly baked egg to which a mixture of ground white fish called "namami" and yam or shiba shrimp roe is added. A special "thin omelet griddle" is used to cook the Usuyaki Tamago. It takes about an hour to cook the eggs slowly over a low flame to avoid burning them, a process that requires skill and patience. Although Usuyaki Tamago is the most traditional type of omelet, very few sushi restaurants serve it. The “Usuyaki Tamago no Kurakake Nigiri” is one of the most artistic nigiri of Edomae Sushi.
I would like to see more sushi chefs express their originality with Usuyaki Tamago.
Dashimaki Tamago (Atsuyaki Tamago)
It is said that Dashimaki Tamago (thickly baked eggs) began to be served at Edomae-zushi restaurants after World War II (after 1945). Sushi chefs reportedly imitated and adopted this standard snack from soba (buckwheat noodle) restaurants. Since it is easier to cook than Usuyaki Tamago, it seems to have become popular as a way to cut corners. There was a time when "kashi-tama," eggs bought from specialty restaurants such as “Tsukiji Shoro”, became rampant instead of being cooked by the chef himself (the sushi chefs who cut corners are to blame, not the specialty restaurants themselves). This is probably why the saying "you can tell the quality of a sushi restaurant by its tamago" was born. Therefore, with historical context, Dashimaki Tamago has a popular, street-style sushi nuance. It is not bad by any means, but I feel it embodies the spirit of Showa-era machiba-zushi rather than the soul of Edomae-zushi. Some Edomae sushi chefs consciously serve Dashimaki Tamago with the intention of making diners feel at ease.
Castella Tamago (Kasutera Tamago)
The reason why it is called "Castella Tamago" is because it has a texture exactly like Nagasaki's famous confectionery, Castella. In the past, the thinly baked eggs mentioned above were sometimes called "Castella," but since the Heisei era, "thick and moist" eggs have been more commonly referred to as "Castella Tamago." The moist texture is achieved by including yam and shiba shrimp. Although it was overshadowed for a time by the aforementioned "kawagitama," Castella Tamago has been revived since the Heisei era by young craftsmen (as mentioned in an interview with Kizushi in Ningyo-cho). Recently, Castella Tamago has become the mainstream. Although more time-consuming than Usuyaki Tamago, Castella Tamago is considered to be "typical of Edomae-zushi restaurants" and allows for more individuality. Kisushi Sushi is unique in that it uses Castella Tamago and is shaped like Usuyaki Tamago.
When savoring Egg Omelet (Tamago) at a sushi restaurant, pay attention to these key aspects:
Texture
Aroma
Sweet and salty taste
Use of seafood such as shiba shrimp
The question of how to describe an egg is an interesting topic that is evolving day by day. Recently, more and more sushi chefs are expressing eggs as if they were sweets by making them into soufflés, semi-cooked puddings, or caramelizing their surfaces.
In any case, what is important, in addition to the taste and aroma factors mentioned above, is the "feeling of eating tamagoyaki at a sushi restaurant." If it is too sweet, like pudding or chiffon cake, it may not be very satisfying.
The most important point to note is the type of seafood used in the restaurant. In addition to the traditional shrimp and white fish, some sushi chefs use scallops and other shellfish. It is interesting to examine them, as they can be identified by their aroma and flavor properties.
Nori (Seaweed)
Nori was one of Edo's major industries during the Edo period. Nori is a traditional food invented and refined during this time. Until the Edo period, nori was a natural product that grew on rocks, which was then dried and eaten. This is the "iwa nori" of today. However, in the Edo period, fishermen noticed that laver was growing on the pillars of fishponds used for fish farming. When they put the poles up in the sea, the seaweed adhered to them, indicating that cultivation was feasible. Later, in the mid-Edo period, the papermaking method was applied, and "Asakusa Nori" was born. In Asakusa, the papermaking method, in which used Japanese paper was recycled for use, was flourishing, and the papermaking technique was advancing. This was applied to cultivated laver and made into sheets, which is how we have laver today. Around the same time, the method of cooking rice also changed.
The traditional method of cooking rice was to simply steam it, but by cooking it without steaming, the rice became soft and tasty, resulting in “hime-ii.” Furthermore, the development of vinegar brewing led to the progression to vinegared rice using acetic acid fermented vinegar instead of lactic acid fermented sushi. The combination of nori (seaweed), “hime-ii”, and vinegared rice has expanded the variety of sushi. Nori has played an important role in sushi.
When savoring Nori (Seaweed) at a sushi restaurant, pay attention to these key aspects:
Texture
Aroma
Taste
These are the most important things to look for when eating laver. A small amount of thick, crisp, mellow, and tasty laver will impress you. It is irreversible if you try to use high-end laver at home, so it is better to consider carefully when you try to purchase it.
Wasabi (Japanese horseradish)
Finally, wasabi should not be ignored when discussing Edomae-zushi. It is used as a condiment by placing it between the tane (sushi topping) and rice, but there are also sushi for enthusiasts, such as wasabi maki (wasabi roll), which uses wasabi as the main ingredient. As mentioned repeatedly in my articles, wasabi in Edomae-zushi refers specifically to hon-wasabi (real wasabi). Mixed wasabi and powdered wasabi are different, so please understand that I am talking about hon-wasabi here.
Now, when did wasabi come to be used in sushi? It is thought to be around the Bunka era (1804-1818) to Bunsei era (1818-1830) in the late Edo period. The well-known "Morisada-manko" (a book written over a period of about 30 years from 1837) states, "Sashimi and kohada are served with wasabi on top of the rice and under the meat." In addition, Ganosuke Nagase's "Sushi Tsu" (1930) states, "Wasabi was originally first used in Matsugae-zushi in Fukagawa during the Bunka era to remove the fishy smell of mackerel."
Although wasabi was originally used to remove the fishy smell, it probably took root because of its excellent compatibility with seafood and vinegared rice. In particular, wasabi goes especially well with hikarimono (silver-skinned fish) and tuna. It is used to tighten the flavor of fish with a strong taste and to accentuate the taste of fish with a strong sweet taste.
When savoring Wasabi (Japanese horseradish)) at a sushi restaurant, pay attention to these key aspects:
Aroma
Pungency
Sweetness
In the case of mixed wasabi, wasabi powder is used to add spiciness, and sugar is used to add sweetness, but hon-wasabi naturally possesses both spiciness and sweetness. Mass-produced mixed wasabi is not a substitute for hon-wasabi.
That's all for now. I look forward to seeing you again! If you want to remember sushi toppings and fish varieties discussed in this chapter, please refer to this linked article.
I hope you're looking forward to my next article!
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The TOC of “Spirits of Sushi“
The History of Sushi
Exploring Sushi Varieties: Edomae-zushi (Nigiri-zushi), Kansai-zushi, and More
Essential Sushi Vocabulary: Key Terms for Navigating a Sushi Restaurant
The Heart of Sushi: A Guide to “Shari”, Sushi Rice
A Deep Dive into Sushi Fish and Accompaniments
The Art of the Sushi Master: Traditional Japanese Knives
Japan's Exquisite Fish Culture: From Tsukiji to Toyosu Market and Various Regions
Must-Visit Sushi Restaurants: From Tokyo to Sapporo, Fukuoka, and Other Regions
Regional Sushi Styles: Exploring Japan's Diverse Sushi Culture
Sushi and Sake Pairings: A Culinary Adventure
Sushi Etiquette and Table Manner: Dining like a Sophisticated Local
Shopping in Japan: Essentials for Crafting Delicious Sushi at Home
Sushi in Pop Culture: Manga and Movies
Sushi: A Lens on Health and Sustainability
Wrapping Up: The Future of Sushi